Gas Hot Water Troubleshooting in Australia: one does well to check the safety, power, water flow and gas supply before putting your hands on anything. There are simple reasons why a system may be down across the country, from an LPG bottle running dry to a circuit breaker that has tripped or an isolation valve being shut. Then there are the kind of dangerous faults that call for a plumber or gas technician with the proper licence.
My name is Nicholas Fairchild. I have had my share of cold showers and home repairs and temperamental appliances to know that “it will be all right” is no way to go about troubleshooting. What follows is a guide to both instant and storage gas systems and the checks one can do without risk. But should you smell gas, notice a flame acting up or have any misgivings about carbon monoxide, put a stop to it and get out of the area.
A Safe Diagnosis To Begin With
With fuel, combustion, electricity and pressurised water all in one appliance, a good eye for detail is called for and haphazard tinkering is not. For an overview of common hot water issues Melbourne, consult a qualified professional. You are free to examine household supplies and the external controls, but dismantling of thermostats, burners, gas valves or any sealed combustion part is not to be done.
Put some distance between the unit and any children or pets prior to your inspection. If a gas leak is a possibility, there is to be no smoking or use of a naked flame or electrical switches. In the event of an emergency, get to a safe spot and dial 000 as well as the 24-hour gas emergency line or your state’s service.
- If it can be done safely, shut the appliance down with the normal control.
- From where you can see and hear, make note of hissing, soot, a gas odour, any banging or if the unit is making repeated attempts to ignite.
- Before you try to relight or reset, have a word with the manufacturer instructions for your model.
- There is no removing covers or bypassing what is there for your safety, nor should a unit be cycled over and over if it continues to shut down.
- A fault with the internal wiring, gas fittings or a leak that will not go away is for a licensed professional.
For those in Victoria, Energy Safe Victoria has the official guidance on gas safety; other states and territories will have their own regulators and procedures.
Gas And Power Supply
You would be surprised how often the trouble with a gas hot water heater is found outside of it. Without a steady gas supply the water will not be heated and most of today’s systems require power for their sensors and electronic ignition.
Confirm The Gas Is On
See if the cooktop or other gas appliances are in working order. When none of them are, a trip to the gas meter valve from the outside is in order (do not force it). An unpaid bill, a recent cut in supply or a valve left closed will account for the heater not working.
Those on LPG need to make sure the bottle valve is open and check the level of the bottle. Regulators and hoses are not to be disconnected. The moment you detect gas by the appliance, bottle or meter, vacate and put in a call to the emergency service or someone licensed.
Water And Electrical Controls
Make certain the external isolation valve on the appliance has not been inadvertently turned off and test the pressure at a tap or two. A functioning heater can seem to be at fault because of a burst pipe or a closed valve.
As for the power, have a look at the circuit breaker, the switch and the power point. Some have an isolation switch of their own. A breaker that has tripped can be reset once provided there is no evidence of burning, water or damage. Should it happen again, let it be and ring an electrician.
An extension lead is not for a water heater that is permanently in place; the installation must suit the electrical demands and mixing the two is a bad idea.
Resetting
One can learn to reset a gas hot water system to put an end to a control issue or ignition issue of a temporary nature, though it is not the same as a repair. It will not remedy a blocked flue, a gas valve or a sensor that has given way.
The Proper Way
Shut off the hot-water taps and after a short while, in accordance with the maker’s instructions, turn the unit off and back on again. Electronic ones will have a reset button or sequence for this. Do not be tempted to take a cover off to find one or hit a button with no label.
Any error codes the system puts on display should be noted down verbatim before you reset. Providing the code, model number and a description of what transpired will enable a technician to zero in on the probable fault with greater speed; the code itself may be gone by then, complicating any diagnosis.
Once you have reset the unit, let it go through its ignition cycle unimpeded. Should it fail once more, leave it at that. Insisting on repeated ignitions is not advised as they can be symptomatic of issues with the gas supply, the controls, ventilation or flame sensing.
Storage Tank Faults: How to Fix
Any troubleshooting of a gas storage hot water system should commence at the storage tank, burner and pilot light. The systems are designed to heat water in a tank so expect some time for recovery following heavy use; a cold shower in the wake of several bathers is often just normal recovery rather than a breakdown.
The Pilot And Burner
Some older storage systems are fitted with a gas hot water pilot. In the event the pilot has extinguished, one must adhere to the relighting procedure set out on the appliance. Hands and face should be kept well clear. Put a stop to it if the pilot is uncooperative, will not remain lit or gives off an odd yellow or large flame. The flame ought to be in keeping with the instructions. You will need a professional if there are scorch marks, soot, an odour of gas or any indication of overheating. Under no circumstances should the burner be prodded with wire, the interior vacuumed or the gas pressure put to your own adjustment.
Temperature And Recovery
Should the water be anything but hot, the thermostat can be checked via the user control, but do not be tempted to turn up the temperature to make up for a fault you think is there. That could lead to scalding of a serious nature for children, the elderly or those with limited mobility.
There can be insufficient hot water on account of a dip tube being damaged, sediment, a tank not heating properly or simply high demand. Make an appointment for a professional to have a look if it is still an issue after the system has had its headway.
Tank Leaks
These call for prompt action. Water about the tank could be from the pipework, a connection, the relief valve or the tank proper. One should not cap or block a relief valve. Isolate the power and get in touch with a licensed plumber if water has found its way to electrical components and it is safe to do so. A leak in the tank is liable to get worse in short order and ruin wall linings or cupboards. Clear the area and shut off the water isolation valve where you can, then put in for service.
Continuous Flow Heating
With instantaneous systems the water is heated in passing and there is no large volume of it stored, so the indications are not the same as with a storage tank. It might ignite as it should but then shut down over low water flow or because the sensors have picked up something unsafe.
Test The Flow
Put a hot tap on full and see if the flow is steady. Something as simple as a clogged aerator or a restrictive showerhead can bring the flow under what the heater requires. If you are sure of the cause, clean the external fittings on the tap, but do not open the heater.
You will see continuous-flow units touting 16, 20 or 26 litres per minute but that is a maximum under certain conditions, not a guarantee of what you will get from every tap in the winter. Restricted pipework and cold incoming water will have their effect. When the water is going from hot to cold, do not try to mix in a lot of cold at the tap in the course of your diagnosis; the heater could be running below minimum flow. Try a single hot tap and observe if it holds its temperature.
Error Codes
They can be indicative of a problem with the power, water flow, flame sensing or ignition. Note the code and consult the manufacturer before turning the unit off at the control. There is no point in assuming a reset has done the trick if the code is back.
Rinnai or other makes will have their share of common problems but these are model dependent. Brand names are no substitute for the specifics of the model. What matters is the exact model and installation type, the code on display and whether the fault is isolated to one outlet or present at all taps.
Symptoms And Solutions
Use the table to distinguish between an easy check and something requiring a professional. But timing is everything: while you can wait for a storage tank to recover, do not stand by if there is a leak or any concern over carbon monoxide or the smell of gas.
| Symptom | Safe First Check | Likely Next Step | Typical Cost Category |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hot water is out in every outlet. | Check the power and gas supply, the isolation and meter valve. | Should the supplies be in order a licensed diagnosis is called for. | There will be a call-out charge as well as for the labour. |
| The pilot light refuses to stay on. | Try the relighting procedure set out in print once. | Have a gas technician come and inspect it. | What is required by way of repair or parts will be determined then. |
| An error code on the continuous-flow unit? | Put down what the code is and consult the manual. | If it reappears, put in a call for a technician. | Fault-specific repairs and the call-out are additional. |
| Shortage of hot water | Look at the temperature setting, flow, recovery time and demand. | Inspect the tank, burner and thermostat, with replacement being an option depending on findings. | Inspection to replacement dependent |
| Unit leaking | Isolate the water if it can be done safely and make room. | Urgent licensed plumber | Parts and service will be needed. |
| Any sign of soot, a yellow flame or an odd smell? | Leave the area and turn it off if you can. | A gas emergency service or technician should be contacted. | Dependent on the nature of the safety fault. |
The mistake most make is to see a symptom and think it is a water issue when in fact it is electrical or gas. A failure of the cooktop is an indication to look at the supply. With only the shower involved, check the fitting and the flow. Where all outlets are concerned, the heater and its supplies are where the problem lies.
Common Fault Patterns
There is more than one reason for a gas hot water system to be down and the pattern is of greater import than the make of the appliance. Take note of any ignition noise from the heater, if the trouble is at all outlets, and if it was preceded by a power loss or the weather.
- An absence of that sound could be a control, ignition or power matter.
- If the unit ignites and straight away shuts down, the cause may be in the ventilation, gas supply or flame sensing.
- Hot water that gives out while in use can be a function of the burner, temperature controls, demand or flow.
- Excessively hot water points to an issue with tempering, the thermostat or a control.
- A storage tank that is banging or popping is likely to have sediment or some other internal fault.
Then there is the cold weather which puts a strain on systems that are marginal. The incoming water is colder, LPG demand goes up and a continuous-flow heater can have difficulty with multiple outlets in use. In Melbourne it is not uncommon for residents to run into hot water trouble in the wake of winter power interruptions or a change in household demand.
Calling For Help
For faults pertaining to combustion, gas connections, the wiring, internal parts of the appliance, ventilation or an ongoing lack of heating, engage a licensed plumber or gas technician. By law in Australia this work must be done by someone with the proper licence. One should ask to see it and get a written scope of work along with an accounting of the parts, labour and any after-hours surcharge.
Do not hesitate to call if there is a hissing sound, a smell of gas, a damaged flue or soot, or if you feel unwell in the vicinity of the appliance. Carbon monoxide is a danger as it has no colour or odour. Get out of the building and ring emergency services from the fresh air outside.
Where a repair is going to exceed the value of the system, put forward a request for two options: a compliant replacement and a safe repair. A replacement will vary in price according to capacity, the type of gas, pipework, access and the like. Be wary of a very low quote, it may not include compliance work or removal.
The Right Course Of Action
This guide is for the homeowner or tenant who wishes to do some safe external checking and put a description on a fault. It is not for those intent on repairing internal electrics, tampering with a safety device or taking apart a gas appliance.
Make your notes on error codes and give priority to safety, the water isolation and the power and gas supply. But if there is a leak or anything untoward in the way of combustion, forgo troubleshooting and get help. The aim is to have hot water back without any risk of scalding, fire or carbon monoxide, not to get the heater running come what may.
Frequently Asked Questions
What sort of problems are there with gas systems?
From a failed ignition and empty LPG bottle to a leaking tank, sediment or an electrical fault, the list is long. Internal gas and combustion work is for a professional with a licence; an external check is all that is reasonable.
What is the most frequent fault?
Supply and ignition are the usual culprits but it depends on the age and system of the heater. Do not jump to the conclusion the heater has gone; see if there is an error code or if the unit has power and other gas appliances are functioning.
My instant unit is not working. Why?
It could be a power interruption or gas interruption, blocked filtration, insufficient water flow or a flame-sensing fault. Run a hot tap at full flow and note the code. Professional diagnosis is warranted if the unit keeps shutting down.
Is it possible to relight the pilot?
Only if the instructions say so and there is no evidence of damage, soot or a smell of gas. Make one attempt at the printed procedure. Failing to keep it lit means you call in a technician.
Will a reset do the trick?
Not if there is a bad sensor, a flue blockage or an unsafe installation, though it may put right a temporary condition with the controls. Have the manufacturer’s instructions to hand and put down the error codes first.
Reliable service is what a gas hot water system ought to provide but there are limits to safe troubleshooting. See to the obvious supplies and record the details, and when the fault is beyond what can be safely accessed in the home, a call to a licensed plumber or gas technician is in order.
